Planking

Planks are going back on, which is very exciting.  I've learned that restoring an old boat takes a long time. My father said, "boy, you could have built a whole new boat by now".  He's right, restoration is definitely "fidly".   

One thing I've learned is that there is a log of work required to prep the planks.  In a new build, once its cut and shaped, you slap it on and drill and screw.  In this case, each existing hole has to be examined, and if its in bad shape, it needs to be repaired.  this can be done either with plugs, or with epoxy.   both equal more time.

So far, two planks are back on and screwed in;  screwing takes no time at all,  The brace and bit make short work of if.  The only problem i've run into is that one of the screws that is going into a replacement oak rib sheared off.   all the screws in that rib are resisting a lot.  I tried some wax on the screw,but still not able to turn them home.  need to think more about that one.

The bright side is that the new chine log is doing a great job holding the chine planks in place, and looks great.  Makes a huge difference in the boats structure replacing the rotted old one.  Only two more planks on this side of the boat, then I restart on the other side fixing ribs and iron sick screw holes, and stripping varnish.

Brace and Bit ready for action driving new screws into the chine log.

Plank Cleaning

I've been prepping planks for re-installation.   Its a slow process, but the results are worth it.  I'm I've already stripped the majority of the varnish and paint that was on the inside of the boat.  most of it was done when the planks came off; now I'm working to remove the residue that remained.  I've been doing this with a heat gun and #3 steel wool.  Its a good method for these mahogany planks, but I've heard that using steel wool isn't good to use on oak, because bits get in the wood and cause rust stains (but haven't confirmed that myself).

Before I started this process, I removed the bulk of the varnish and paint with a heat gun and scraper, being careful not to scratch the wood.  that then leaves some areas of thin varnish

Ultimately, this isn't a sanding operation.  You don't want to use the wool to abrade the varnish or wood.  Let the heat gun do the work.  I let the gun sit on a spot for about 5 seconds, then lightly wipe with the wool.  The idea is that the wool picks up the liquified varnish, and it gets trapped in the wool and pulls away.  After a while the wool gets matted with varnish and you need a new one. 

Here are the tools of the trade.  heat gun, steel wood (about half way through its life), safety glasses, gloves, and a respirator.  The respirator is a must, I did a few days of this without one, and found that my mental capacity at work was limited... oops.

Here is the latest victim, not bad for a piece of wood that was first screwed onto the boat 80 years ago.

Valentine's Day Update

Got some varnish on the interior of the boat today.   Will start putting on planks, rather than taking them off, soon.   This varnish work is somewhat slapdash, but its all interior, and this boat needs to get in the water, so I'm not striving for perfection.